Day 8

Some random thoughts from yesterday (Shabbat):

We had just begun “walking the psalms” with Rabbi David Wilfond. We were perched on some ancient steps in the old city that were just beginning to turn gold and listening to the Rabbi describe how we all ascend to Jerusalem with “a lot of baggage piled on our shoulders” when Charlie Rich remarked quietly, “Hrrmph, not me!” There were a few giggles. For those of you eagerly following the saga, Charlie’s suitcase did finally arrive last evening.

Returning to our room last night, after a rather long walk home from Ben Yehuda Mall with Anne, I realize that she will out-walk all of us.

Day Eight: Sunday, June 20, 2010

LaDa’at: To Know –
The Geopolitics of Jerusalem.

This morning, Robbie (from the Parents Circle – Families Forum) was a powerful voice for the people. Regardless of what is happening in the political scene, and regardless of what we see in the media, there are real people – Israelis and Palestinians, Arabs and Jews – with real children they love, who are dying and being killed, some sniped at and many sadly caught in the crossfire. Much like our own wars in Iraq and Afghanistan, until the conflict hits home – becomes personal somehow – it is difficult for us to want to work hard to end it. Robbie, and the stories from her organization, clearly embodied and communicated that personal contact for us.

After quite a bus ride via vistas and controlled highways in the “West Bank,” we could see Bethlehem in the near distance, but we couldn’t go there. Actually standing next to the 8-meters-tall concrete separation barrier and touching it was surprisingly comforting. Its existence has virtually eliminated homicide bombers in Israel. And it is mostly (96%) fence, not wall. It’s a necessity so that Israelis can live “normal” lives, more like we get to do in the U.S., reducing the daily fear caused by terrorism. The commentary from Muki is that much of what we see in the media may be real, but it is often not representative. Radical sound bites and visuals of “the Apartheid Wall” play better on our TVs than an invisible fence and nuanced discourse. One of the best memorable moments was when the stern soldier came over to ensure we weren’t taking any photos of the security gate, watch tower, etc. Then, he gladly posed for a photo with Anne and actually broke a smile when he put his arm around Zach and they switched hats, reminding us that the stern guy in uniform is still a young teen at heart.

At Kfar Etzion kibbutz, we met Sandy, a kibbutznik originally from Los Angeles. We heard her story and watched a 25-minute sound and light show about the history of the Gush Etzion settlement, their heroic stand to protect Jerusalem in ’48, and the tragic conclusion in their bunker. I found it rather surreal, because, once the projector started working without the white screen, we got to watch the video on the striated wooden wall, which kept reminding me of the striped uniforms and prison bars of concentration camps. We were in good company; as we came back out into the sun, we were surrounded by many young soldiers who’d come to see the 2PM showing of the same historical film. Muki reminded us that the soldiers come from all different sorts of backgrounds and that it’s important for them to learn about whom and what they’re fighting for.

Returning to the community of Efrat (where we had lunch earlier), we met with modern Orthodox Rabbi Shlomo Rishkin, one of the town’s founders and its Chief Rabbi. He stunned most of us with his talk – for example, while they do still separate men and women during their services, their girls do become Bat Mitzvah, and he said some of his schools even have rabbinate training for women. One of the statements that particularly stuck with me: “The biggest obstacle to growing faith and religion in Israel is the Orthodox monopoly.”

Most of us took the opportunity to “set down roots” in Israeli soil by planting trees. We also got to meet Malka, formerly Michelle, whose mother and Anne were consecutive presidents of Hadassah in New York. Our guide at Neot Kedumim nature reserve boarded the bus, welcomed us, and told us she had made aliyah from New York. Anne, of course, asked where in New York; Michelle said “Newburgh” – and then the hilarity ensued. Anne said later this evening:

“The emotions of meeting someone whom I knew and catching up on old friends makes me realize what a small world it is! The last time I saw her, she was in elementary school, and yet she remembered my name.”

Walking the seven species of the Bible at the nature reserve was a fun, low-intellectual-stress activity. We learned how ancient Israelis harvested, processed, and produced food from their crops. Sandy may not have been the most proficient grain thresher, but he was probably just making the rest of us city-folk comfortable. I learned a lot about basic farming that my dad, a New York City bus driver, never taught me. And David Wark doing the hamster-exercise routine in the water wheel was an event not to be missed!

On our ride back to Jerusalem, making aliyah up Route 1 this time, there were numerous phone calls in and out as people wished their families a Happy Fathers’ Day.

A group of us walked up to meet Daniella at the Jaffa Gate later in the evening for an absolutely amazing sound and light show covering the entire history of Jerusalem. The show was projected on the Old City walls within David’s Tower Museum. When I saw the wheat and pomegranates and the other plants of the seven species being painted in light on the walls, I reflected on a most perfect day. Wake up call is set for 6:45 for another fun-filled day tomorrow.

Charlie and Marjorie Levine